I might get two amps if budget allows. ALL of the single amplifier orders shipped out late yesterday. Note that even one Turbo will out perform and sound better than the pair powered by the SA, and you don’t need to upgrade them both at the same time if it’s easier to split the upgrade cost over time. Aren’t the drivers in your sub the ones Lilmike used when he designed the F? That would be a good project as well. Im wondering if I could utilize it and make an additional sub for the theater room using this amp and a suggested woofer s.
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This means if an owner wants to later upgrade to the Turbo kit, this is possible by shipping the 5 lb amplifier back to us for re-programmed as a Turbo kit amplifier.
AV MFW Driver Swap Out | Audioholics Home Theater Forums
Failed filename Unsupported photo file type. These were in the middle of the warehouse, so not ideal outdoor measurements of a vented sub, but if you excuse a little wiggle in the response, you can see just how smooth the response is now, and the range of options the “LF EQ” knob provides. It sounds very good.
Post room correction flavoring. Later this year I will have newly developed turbo woofers available which will fit within the original cover panel. You do need to make sure you have the high pass filter switch on the back set to ON, and you will probably want the bass boost in the amp engaged.
I have two MFW’s, one of which developed mfs-15 hum. Well, at least about the iNuke. Like the red 5 o’clock line – that looks ideal because it has the highest dB, but maybe I am missing something.
This allows you to route the subwoofer signal into one sub and pass it on to another or on to shakers or the like. I have decided to take the plate amps off both of them and power them with a rack amp Behringer EP I don’t doubt these are good graphs, I just can’t put into words what they are meaning to me. I am going to push the two original driver with the SA until I can save some green and then go with the Turbo kits.
Problem is the quad15 never really took off and there just hasnt been enough interest or demand for replace,ent new driver to warent a production run as these are not off replavement shelf. This tilt was also by design, a very nice contour to apply to the result of an Audyssey calibration which might sound a little lean and lacking the fun factor many are after in their home theater.
The enclosures I have are sealed, should I port them with this new driver? You you had watts per driver this would give you 6 more dB of headroom.
Start position full clockwise for use with surround processor. I have soldiered before and am fairly confident in replacememt so, but I went on the youtubes for a quick tutorial on how to replace capacitors and IMHO it was pretty easy.
However, it is probably loud enough for most of your listening so it really isn’t an issue to “only” have watts. Aren’t the drivers in your sub the ones Lilmike used when he mwf-15 the F?
The Turbo driver we were selling has surround which was larger than the stock MFW driver. BB code is On.
Last year a very nice member walked me through the process of bridging a DSP. I first replaced C2 and C3 because those showed signs of damage, mfw-5 when I powered it on, C3 literally blew up.
Anyone have a link? This upgrade will also greatly reduce the likelihood of hearing any foul noises from your MFW if a soundtrack pushes the upper performance limits. The middle, light blue line is what you get with the LF EQ knob at 12 o’clock.
As I like to say, if there was a single correct setting, I’d get rid of the knob and set it there. Hey chad, I was going to cut a hole in the back plate after removing the existing dead amp.
I can hear the subs outside already. Are there cheaper options out there? Log in or sign up in seconds. Note that even one Turbo will out perform and sound better than the pair powered by the SA, and you don’t need to upgrade them both at the same time if it’s easier to split the upgrade cost over time.